Caprock Canyon State Park is a very special place. From the moment I stepped out of my car, I knew that much was true. The first thing I noticed was the gravel beneath my boots screaming with every step I took. The utter silence was so profound, even the smallest of noises seemed shrill. It was as if the sky was soaking up all the sounds I’ve grown accustomed to; the hum and buzz of the city. It was a glorious day in mid-November and the Welcome Center was closed for lunch when I arrived. They close from noon to 1:00 Sunday through Thursday. When the office re-opened, the Park Ranger I spoke with was very helpful and made some good suggestions for a campsite. I decided to stay at the North Prong Primitive area on the far side of the park. There’s a small parking lot off the main road and the hike to the designated area is a short (maybe three quarters of a mile?) but beautiful hike up the North Prong Spur. Once you’re there, set up where you feel comfortable. Especially in November. I had the place to myself, and since this was my first venture into Bison territory, I opted for a spot a bit higher up and closer to the canyon wall. It was a longer trek to the outhouse, but worth the peace of mind. I have a phobia of being trampled in my sleep. At this point I should mention that Caprock Canyon State Park hosts the Texas State Bison Herd and they roam freely through the park. Generally not a problem, unless you’re an idiot who goes out of your way to piss off a 1.5 – 2 ton animal. They allegedly have been known to wander into campsites, and there is evidence baked into the red clay of their stomping around, but the only bison I observed during my stay were meandering about the main entrance. The North Prong Primitive area backs up to a bluff below Haynes Ridge and overlooks a large valley to the South. Canyon walls are visible across the valley to the East, and the West is a keyhole you hiked through to get to where you are, along with more canyon ridges. It’s a beautiful spot. After I set up camp, I walked up the bluff as high as I could and sat and looked out over the valley. The wind was minimal, but steady on the ears. I felt like I was sitting in the middle of one of the Louis L’amour novels I read in my adolescence. I was staring out into every western I’d ever seen. There is a kind of magic in the air that you simply do not find everywhere you go. Daylight fades fast when you’re in the belly of a canyon, but the view of the sky once twilight gives way to night is astounding. It had been such a long time since I was able to see the Milky Way with my naked eye. Maybe it was the red dust of the Texas panhandle, or perhaps it was the 34 degree wind biting at my eyes at a steady 15 mph, but tears found their way past my lashes that first night as I watched the night darken and the starlight intensify. Morning in West Texas in the winter is its own wonder. When I climbed out of my sleeping bag, desperate for hot coffee, the sun had yet to breach the horizon set by the canyon wall. The sky was light in the East, yet still dark in the west. A brief moment just before darkness gives way to the sun. Everything was covered in a thin layer of frost. When the sun finally made its way to the valley floor, everything glistened for a little while. Breakfast was coffee, eggs and bacon over an MSR WhisperLite. After breakfast, I grabbed my day pack and my camera bag and headed out. The plan was to ascend the switchbacks climbing from Canyon Loop Trail to Haynes Ridges, then come back along the Haynes Ridge Overlook and Upper Canyon trails. I figured this would give me the opportunity to catch the views from Haynes Ridge and hit Fern Cave on my way back. Well, the plan did not play out as I had hoped. When you look at the trail map you download from the park website, you’ll notice the words “Extremely Steep & Rugged” in three places along the route I just laid out. In each instance, you’re looking at approximately 600 feet of elevation rise in less than an eighth of a mile, but that’s not what stopped my plan in its tracks. The switchbacks on the map to reach the Scenic Overlook for Haynes Ridge are not actual switchbacks, but a path laid out through what basically amounts to a boulder field for the first 400 or so feet. I made it up about 150 feet, scrambling over boulders and stones, and finally decided a mechanical injury simply wasn’t worth it. I was alone and off the main trail (it was apparent that people do not generally take this trail), so I turned around and reversed my route, taking Upper Canyon to Haynes Ridge, then hiking about three quarters of the way to the Scenic Overlook before turning around to head back. The hike was beautiful. The ascent wasn’t too bad. It gets the knees and gluts burning and is probably not suitable for small children. I made it back to camp, had a late lunch and rested my feet. As the day progressed, the wind picked up and shifted. It started blowing from the Northeast, which happened to be straight into my camp. I somehow manages to get a couple of bars on my phone, so I checked the weather report and I was not thrilled about the results. The temperature was supposed to dive down to 18 degrees with a steady 20 mph wind. I arrived prepared for 30-ish with wind chill, but now I was facing maybe 2 degrees when you factor in the wind. After a short internal conflict, I decided it would be best to not freeze my ass off all night and I packed up camp. On my way out, I stopped by the Honey Flat camping area to throw away some trash (pack it out people!) and spent a little while trying my damnedest to get a shot of one of the seemingly endless number of Prairie Dogs that make their homes there. No luck. They are as shy as they are fast and seem to think cameras will absorb their souls. I give the park a 10/10 on the basis that it’s exactly what I was looking for; incredibly beautiful, unspoiled West Texas solitude.
1 Comment
11/2/2022 11:16:31 pm
Building large degree hundred item partner. Nearly have early decision no price. Side hit piece gun player person.
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